Burgundian Tradition Meets Oregon Terroir
La Bête Wines represents one of Oregon’s most distinctive approaches to Pinot Noir winemaking. Founded by John Eliassen and Kay Kusy-Eliassen with their first vintage in 1998, La Bête has built a remarkable reputation for creating wines that honor traditional Burgundian techniques while expressing the unique character of Oregon’s Willamette Valley vineyards.
What sets La Bête apart is winemaker John Eliassen’s formal education in Burgundy and his unwavering commitment to non-interventionist winemaking. Rather than imposing a winemaker’s signature on every bottle, La Bête wines allow the soils, micro-climates, and terroir of each vineyard to express themselves authentically—a philosophy rooted in centuries of Burgundian tradition applied to Oregon’s exceptional vineyard sites.
A Winemaker Trained in the Heart of Burgundy
John Eliassen’s journey to becoming one of Oregon’s most respected Pinot Noir producers took a distinctive path through the heart of French wine country. After years as an amateur winemaker and volunteer at Oregon wineries, John decided he wanted formal education in traditional winemaking techniques. In 1987, he and Kay moved to France, where John enrolled simultaneously in two of Burgundy’s most prestigious institutions:
- Lycée Viticole in Beaune – The renowned wine school in Burgundy’s wine capital
- Université de Bourgogne, Dijon – The university’s respected viticulture and enology program
John’s accomplishment of graduating with degrees in both Oenologie (winemaking) and Viticulture from these outstanding schools represents a significant achievement. During his studies, he also worked as an apprentice at two distinguished Burgundian estates:
- Domaine des Lambrays – A Grand Cru estate in Morey-Saint-Denis
- Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard – A respected producer in Chassagne-Montrachet
This immersion in Burgundy’s wine culture—studying the region’s very old and traditional techniques while working alongside master winemakers—fundamentally shaped John’s approach to winemaking. He returned to Oregon with deep knowledge of Burgundian methods and a commitment to applying these time-tested techniques to Oregon’s exceptional Pinot Noir vineyards.
The La Bête Winemaking Philosophy
La Bête’s approach to winemaking is distinctively non-interventionist and somewhat atypical compared to many Oregon wineries. John Eliassen’s Burgundian training informs every decision, resulting in wines that prioritize vineyard expression over winemaking manipulation.
Key Winemaking Principles:
Minimal Intervention: All La Bête Pinot Noirs are produced using the same traditional methods, allowing vineyard character to shine through without heavy-handed winemaking techniques.
No Cold Soaking: Unlike many modern Pinot Noir producers, La Bête avoids cold-soaking techniques, preferring traditional fermentation methods.
Restrained Oak Usage: Little or no new oak is used in order not to diminish the character of the vineyard. The focus remains on fruit, terroir, and structure rather than oak influence.
Terroir Expression: John prefers to allow the soils, micro-climates, and terroir of each vineyard to express themselves in the wines, rather than imposing a consistent winemaker signature across all bottlings.
Traditional Techniques: Gentle handling, traditional pigeage (foot stomping), and patient aging all reflect Burgundian methods adapted to Oregon conditions.
This philosophy results in Pinot Noirs that are distinctive, age-worthy, and truly reflective of their vineyard origins—wines that speak of place rather than process.
La Bête Wine Portfolio
Pinot Noir – The Heart of Production
Pinot Noir is the focus of La Bête’s production, with approximately 1,500 cases produced annually. Depending on the vintage, La Bête produces both blended wines and single-vineyard designated Pinot Noirs:
Blended Pinot Noirs:
- Willamette Valley Pinot Noir – Showcasing the broader regional character
- Selection du Cave – A winemaker’s selection blending exceptional barrels
Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs:
La Bête has worked with some of Oregon’s most respected vineyard sites over the years, including:
- Stoller Vineyard
- Momtazi Vineyard
- Archery Summit Vineyard
- Temperance Hill Vineyard
- Resonance Vineyard
- Reed & Reynolds Vineyard
- Corral Creek Vineyard
- Knights’ Gambit/Red Hills Vineyard
La Bête Flagship: Calera Clone Pinot Noir
The La Bête flagship wine represents the debut of Calera Clone Block 6 Pinot Noir as a solo bottling. This controversial Pinot Noir selection is simultaneously one of the most Burgundian and least Burgundian clones in the New World.
What Makes Calera Clone Special:
- Naturally produces very low yields
- Prone to millerandage (uneven berry development) and shatter in spring
- Tiny, infertile berries create exceptional concentration
- Deep color saturation—more reminiscent of Syrah than typical Pinot Noir
- Powerful, original expression of the Pinot spectrum
- Murky origins—possibly from Grand Cru Burgundy vineyards, possibly California heritage
The resulting wine is powerful, rich, and nuanced with complex aromas of red rose petal, violets, raspberry, pomegranate, black cherry, black tea, and rosemary. The finish is long with textures that are at once silky and velvety—a wine to enjoy now but also worthy of cellaring.
Production is extremely limited (only 175 cases) due to the naturally low yields of this distinctive clone.
Rare White Wines
In addition to Pinot Noir, La Bête produces small quantities of white wines that reflect John’s Burgundian training and interest in historic grape varieties:
Aligoté: La Bête is the only producer of Aligoté in Oregon. This traditional Burgundian white grape produces crisp, refreshing wines.
Melon de Bourgogne: One of only a handful of Oregon producers working with this historic white Burgundy grape (the grape of Muscadet).
Pinot Gris: Small quantities of this versatile white grape, historically important in white Burgundy production.
Gamay Noir: Limited production of this Beaujolais grape, adding another dimension to the portfolio.
These white wines showcase John’s commitment to exploring Burgundy’s full viticultural heritage in Oregon’s climate.
Critical Acclaim & Awards
La Bête Wines has earned consistent critical recognition over more than two decades, with five consecutive years of particularly outstanding reviews. Notable scores include:
Recent Recognition:
2017 La Bête Pinot Noir – 93 points, Wine & Spirits (Patrick J. Comiskey):
“With a formidable build, this seems made for aging, but it’s already compelling, with scents of beef consommé, black tea and clove over flavors of plum and cherry, and sumptuous oak molding the contours of the fruit. Cellar.”
2017 La Bête Pinot Noir – 93 points, Wine Advocate (Erin Brooks):
“The 2017 Pinot Noir La Bête has a medium ruby-purple color and scents of marionberry, blackberry and spiced cranberries with dried violets, mossy bark, loamy earth and sweet spices. The medium-bodied palate is silky but powerful, offering loads of lush, ripe fruits and finishing long and dense but with good freshness. Larry Stone calls this a ‘bruiser,’ and with all that fruit and firm structure, this should be an excellent candidate for cellar aging.”
Historical Recognition:
Wine Enthusiast:
- 1998 Pinot Noir, Knights’ Gambit/Red Hills Vineyard – 92 points
- 2002 Pinot Noir, Stoller Vineyard – 90 points
- 2002 Pinot Noir, Momtazi Vineyard – 88 points
Wine Spectator:
- 2000 Pinot Noir, Reed & Reynolds Vineyard – 91 points
- 2000 Pinot Noir, Corral Creek Vineyard – 90 points
- 2002 Pinot Noir, Resonance Vineyard – 90 points: “supple, with pure blackberry, plum and peppery spice flavors, finishing with an intense sense of sweetness and fine tannins that let the flavors last impressively.”
- 1999 Pinot Noir, Temperance Hill Vineyard – 90 points
- 2001 Pinot Noir, Reed & Reynolds Vineyard – 90 points
Wine & Spirits:
- 2002 Pinot Noir, Stoller Vineyard – 89 points
- 2001 Pinot Noir, Archery Summit Vineyard – 88 points
Wine Advocate:
- 2002 Pinot Noir, Momtazi – 88 points: “sports a complex nose of espresso beans, black fruits, and spices”
- 2002 Pinot Noir, Stoller – 86 points: “Sweet, lush, and friendly on the attack, this wine pops forth with delightful red cherry flavors…”
This consistent recognition across multiple critics and vintages demonstrates La Bête’s commitment to quality and the effectiveness of their traditional, terroir-focused approach.
The People Behind La Bête
John Eliassen – Winemaker & Co-Founder: With formal degrees in Oenologie and Viticulture from Burgundy’s most prestigious institutions and apprenticeships at Grand Cru estates, John brings authentic Burgundian expertise to Oregon Pinot Noir.
Kay Kusy-Eliassen – Co-Founder: Together with John, Kay has worked in the Oregon wine business for a combined time of nearly 60 years. Both continue to work other full-time jobs alongside managing the winery business, demonstrating their passion-driven commitment to quality winemaking.
Paige Eliassen: The couple’s daughter supervises and manages La Bête’s electronic media and online presence. The Japanese characters on La Bête’s label represent Paige’s name in characters—a personal touch that reflects the family nature of this artisanal winery.
Food Pairing Recommendations
La Bête’s powerful, structured Pinot Noirs pair beautifully with substantial dishes that can stand up to the wines’ intensity:
Ideal Pairings:
- Grilled NY Strip Steaks
- Peking Duck or Sautéed Duck Breast with crispy skin
- Leg of Lamb Provençale
- Sautéed Lamb Loin Coated in Toasted Hazelnut Flour
- Whole Duck or Pheasant Stuffed with Chestnuts and Wild Rice
- Quail
- Porcini Risotto
- Pasta with creamy Porcini or Morel sauce
The wines’ structure, depth, and complexity make them excellent companions to rich, savory dishes—particularly game, lamb, duck, and mushroom-based preparations.
Aging Potential
La Bête wines are made for both current enjoyment and cellar aging. The traditional Burgundian techniques, restrained oak usage, and focus on structure create wines with excellent aging potential. Critics frequently note that La Bête Pinot Noirs will reward patience, developing additional complexity and nuance over 5-10+ years in proper cellar conditions.
The flagship La Bête Calera Clone bottling, in particular, has been described as a “bruiser” with “formidable build” that “seems made for aging”—high praise for collectors seeking Oregon Pinot Noirs worthy of long-term cellaring.
Why La Bête Wines Matter
Authentic Burgundian Expertise: Few Oregon winemakers can claim formal degrees from Burgundy’s top institutions and apprenticeships at Grand Cru estates. John Eliassen’s education brings genuine Old World knowledge to New World winemaking.
Terroir-Focused Philosophy: In an era of heavily manipulated wines, La Bête’s non-interventionist approach allows vineyard character to speak clearly—resulting in wines of place rather than wines of process.
Rare Varietals: As Oregon’s only Aligoté producer and one of few making Melon de Bourgogne, La Bête preserves viticultural diversity and connects Oregon to Burgundy’s full heritage.
Consistent Quality: Over 20+ vintages, La Bête has maintained exceptional quality standards, earning critical acclaim across multiple critics and publications.
Limited Production: Small production (approximately 1,500 cases annually) ensures hands-on attention and quality focus impossible at larger scale.
Contact & Availability
La Bête Wines, Inc.
21000 SW Eagle Point Road
McMinnville, Oregon 97128
Phone/Fax: (503) 977-1493
Email: labete@teleport.com
Contact: John Eliassen
Due to limited production, La Bête wines are available primarily through the winery directly and select retailers. The flagship La Bête Calera Clone Pinot Noir is extremely limited (175 cases) and typically sells out quickly.
Discover More Oregon Pinot Noir
If La Bête’s approach to terroir-focused, traditionally-made Pinot Noir appeals to you, explore our Oregon Wine Club Reviews to discover wine clubs featuring exceptional Oregon Pinot Noirs and small-production wineries.
Interested in learning more about Burgundian winemaking techniques and Old World approaches to Pinot Noir? Check out our comprehensive Pinot Noir Wine Club Reviews featuring clubs that specialize in artisanal, terroir-driven Pinot Noir from around the world.
Experience Burgundy in Oregon
La Bête Wines demonstrates that Burgundian winemaking philosophy and Oregon terroir can combine to create something truly special. Through formal education in Burgundy’s heartland, apprenticeships at Grand Cru estates, and unwavering commitment to traditional techniques, John and Kay Eliassen have built a winery that honors Old World tradition while celebrating Oregon’s exceptional vineyard sites.
For wine enthusiasts seeking Pinot Noirs that prioritize vineyard expression, age-worthiness, and authentic winemaking over flashy techniques and heavy oak, La Bête represents Oregon winemaking at its most thoughtful and terroir-focused.
La Bête: Where Burgundian tradition meets Oregon terroir, one limited-production bottle at a time.